I have just spent a month in Europe in late spring, early summer. What a luxury. And what opportunities for eating fabulously. London provided the pleasures of Yotam Ottolenghi’s Nopi, in Soho, and Arabica at Borough Markets. In Paris we found Rue de Seine hipness at Semilla and Freddy’s and a traditional lamb tagine at La Soumman. In Florence we went to Neromo on three occasions, as much for the fresh service as the flavoursome food. While in Rome, the fabulous gelato, coffee and small bars revived us after long days on the cobblestones.
The meals that really stood out were the ones that used great produce and prepared it simply. Steamed squid, served with carrot, fennel and leek that had been lightly poached in a lemony vinaigrette, sounded almost too plain but it was the best dish of the trip.
Many other dishes were memorable: a lardo-wrapped fillet of beef with rosemary potatoes; Charred leeks with goats curd; a risotto with asparagus, girolles and red endive; Jambon and melon; and the freshest of Caprese salads (but maybe the fact that we were sitting on a vine-covered Tuscan terrace overlooking Florence contributed to the memory of this meal).
And then there was a dish of Portuguese anchovies with charred bread, butter and a citrus caper dressing, its success depending upon the best quality ingredients. I have put together some instructions to compose this simple entrée/starter:
ANCHOVIES WITH BREAD AND BUTTER
Per person:
5-6 best quality tinned anchovies or
4 best quality tinned sardines or
4 cleaned fresh sardines, chargrilled for 1 minute each side
1-2 slices of gluten-free bread, chargrilled
1 piece best quality butter
1 tablespoon citrus caper dressing
Dressing (enough for 6)
4 tablespoons mild extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoons fresh orange juice, strained
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, strained
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Sea salt and black pepper
2 tablespoons rinsed and dried capers
Zest strips from the oranges
Zest strips from the lemon
Combine the oil, juices, parsley, salt and pepper in a jar and shake well. Place the anchovies or sardines on individual plates and then the bread and butter pieces to the side. Spoon the tablespoon of dressing around the fish. Scatter over the zest strips and capers.
Caren