Radicchio, like many of us, has to be helped along to retain its vibrancy. That lovely, trademark, red colour can only be achieved by inhibiting its exposure to light. Growers often put an inverted pot over their radicchio in the latter stages of growth to inhibit chlorophyll production and promote its lovely colour. If only it were so easy for the rest of us.
Then there’s its bitter taste. It’s not to everyone’s palate. But the bitter taste of radicchio mellows with cooking, as does the colour, and is traditionally used grilled or in a risotto but I like it sautéed in a little butter and sugar to create a caramelised edge. Accompanying it with something sweet gives a beautiful balance. In our recipe below I have soaked some sultanas in a mellow balsamic vinegar to create our sweet foil. The goats' curd and goats' curd vinaigrette add a richness to the dish which, again, gives balance.
This sweet/bitter balance works with raw radicchio too. Lately I have been enjoying a salad made by shredding witlof, radicchio, fennel and a few young parsley leaves with either the balsamic sultanas or some mustard fruits and an olive oil and white wine vinegar dressing. Delicious as a side to meat, poultry or fish. A couple of poached eggs on top makes for a quick lunch or dinner.
Here’s a thought. Whichever way you chose to eat your versatile radicchio it just may be a metaphor for a happy life, retain your vibrancy and balance the bitterness.
Rosie
CARAMELISED RADICCHIO WITH GOATS’ CURD AND DRESSING
Serves 10
100 gm golden sultanas soaked in 2 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar for 20 minutes
400 gm goats’ curd
150 ml extra virgin olive oil
40 ml white wine vinegar
3 firm heads radicchio
30 gm unsalted butter
1.5 tablespoons caster sugar
Preheat oven to 160°C. Line an oven tray with non stick baking paper.
Whisk together 100gm of the goats' curd, 100ml of the olive oil and all the white wine vinegar until thick and smooth. You may need to use a stick blender. Set aside.
Remove the rough outer leaves from the radicchio and discard. Carefully cutting from top to bottom through the core so as to leave the leaves attached at the core, cut each radicchio into quarters.
Heat the remaining olive oil and butter in two large frying pans until the butter is bubbling. Sprinkle three teaspoons of sugar into each frying pan and place half the radicchio quarters on each frying pan, flat surface down. Saute, gently moving the radicchio around the pan, until that surface is quite caramelised then turn over onto the other flat surface and cook until caramelised. Transfer to the prepared oven tray and bake for 5-10 minutes until just wilted and cooked through.
Place a piece of radicchio (or two for big eaters as you will have 12 pieces) on to the centre of each of 10 plates. Place a teaspoon of goats’ curd, at each of north, south, east and west positions on each plate. Drain the golden sultanas and sprinkle around the radicchio. Spoon over the goats' curd dressing and serve. Serve any extra dressing separately.